cellio: (avatar-face)
Monica ([personal profile] cellio) wrote2017-03-21 09:28 pm

keyboards: it's the little things

When I started using computers, keyboards were practically immortal. I stopped using my first keyboard when a couple keys physically broke such that I couldn't get the caps to stay on. My last couple keyboards have not fared so well.

I have an inxpensive Logitech keyboard. "Inexpensive" wasn't actually one of the governing criteria when shopping; I'm willing to pay for a keyboard that delivers higher quality. But what's locally available in stores tends to not be high-end, and I'm not going to spend real money on a keyboard I can't touch first.

The failure mode is irritating, though. My keyboard works fine in most respects, but... well, let me show you a picture:



I can actually live with the worn-off letters because I mostly touch-type. (I'm mystified by what's special about 'L' and 'O'. No, not gaming hotkeys.) But, as a touch-typist, I rely on those little ridges on the 'F' and 'J' keys to tell me that I'm oriented correctly. In the days of typewriters that didn't matter much as you almost never took your hands off the keys, but with a mouse on one side and sometimes a drink on the other, plus things like arrow keys and paging keys, it's pretty essential to the way I use a computer.

My 'J' ridge is gone. And 'F' isn't doing so well either. WTF? That's supposed to be molded plastic!

(I'm open to suggestions, though keyboards are a matter of personal taste so I don't expect them. I require keys that actually have some depth to them; I hate the Mac flat keyboards, which is why I'm using a generic keyboard with my Mac. I also require "not clicky"; typing on anything makes some noise, but I want a quiet one as much as is feasible and definitely not one of the old-style extra-loud ones. I don't care about special keys or even, most of the time, function keys; you'll notice the pristine state of those keys in the photo, cat hair aside. I would prefer that Escape be full-sized. I need the little legs that raise the back of the keyboard.)
metahacker: A picture of white-socked feet, as of a person with their legs crossed. (Default)

[personal profile] metahacker 2017-03-22 04:21 pm (UTC)(link)
Yeah, that's the problem with cheap stuff--it's cheap enough that it feels worth it just to replace the whole thing.

If you want to spend more like $80-100, you can get a very decent mechanical keyboard (with no "click", but a better feel), with thicker keycaps...though I don't know if the pips are themselves taller. I've used mechanicalkeyboards.com before, though the variety can be dizzying.

For feedback on what keyboard to buy, www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/ is, y'know, Reddit, so you'll get the usual mix of extremely useful and...not.
metahacker: The corner of a Commodore 64 keyboard (c64)

[personal profile] metahacker 2017-03-23 01:19 pm (UTC)(link)
Most cheap keyboards use a scissors/X-based design, where thin keycaps are clipped to two interlocking frames that form an X under the key; this holds the key square as it goes up and down. The restorative force is provided by a plastic cap shaped like a mushroom, which dimples when you press down, and undimples to push the key back up. This provides some 'thunk' but can feel very mushy and uncertain.

Almost all mech keyboards these days are based on the MX system, which consists of a plastic socket on a sprung post. The post/socket combination keeps the key moving vertically, rather than wobbling side to side. It also allows for a very "deep" travel if that's what you want, though many people prefer a shallower action (i.e. move the key less far downward). (Also note that you can select where along that travel the computer recognizes it as "key down"; some people prefer a key to trigger right at the top of travel, others only when it's almost completely down.)

The key caps also are generally slightly heavier than for cheap keyboards; I think this is mostly just for subjective oomph, like car doors that make a satisfying "clunk" when you close them.

The sprung part means that they can carefully adjust the feel along the path of travel. See the gifs here:
http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/
for a really deep explanation. Basically you can choose how much resistance, whether the key 'jumps' a little at the end of its travel (so you know tactile-wise whether you've pushed it), and whether it makes an audible 'click', all separately. Based on what you've said I suspect you want Red, unless you want more key-feel, in which case go Brown. (I'm typing on Brown right now. It's not silent, but it doesn't go 'click'.)

One really nice thing about the MX system is that with a tiny bit of soldering, you can replace just certain keys--e.g. some people prefer their shift key to have a different weight, or want their Esc to click, or whatever. Plus, keycap interchangeability means lots of colors.

There are other 'mechanical' keyboard mechanisms (they're all mechanical, but...geeks...); the old holy grail was clicky IBM keyboards, which used a spring that spilled to the side when you pushed the key down--so it resisted for a few mm, then collapsed to the side to make an audible and tactile click. You can still get "buckling spring" keyboards; they're insanely durable, so often these are just old 80s IBM keyboards, cleaned up a little.
Edited (better link) 2017-03-23 13:19 (UTC)