I've been using RateBeer to track beers I've tasted and how much I liked them. This is helpful to pull up on a phone in a restaurant or store. But it relies on their database; if they haven't heard of a beer (and I don't want to do very cumbersome editing to add it on the fly), I can't rate it. Untapped seems to have a larger database but a terrible mobile site.

Fundamentally, this is the wrong approach for me anyway. Sites like RateBeer and Untapped exist to collect and aggregate user-contributed content. I don't care about that. I'm not interested in "social beer". I just want to keep track of things I've tried. And this isn't really just about beer; in days of yore when I bought more books on paper, I wanted to be able to look up what I already own while standing in a bookstore, but GoodReads is not really the interface for that. Similarly, keeping track of board games I like (and variants) is not really a job for BoardGameGeek.

What I need is my own private little database, with a web front end to support both queries (searches) and data entry. I'm the only user, so I don't need anything fancy. (Web, not app, because while I'll do some data entry on the phone, anything non-trivial is going to be done on a computer with a real keyboard.)

This sure feels like a solved problem, but I'm not quite sure what to search for. (Or rather, my searches are leading me to pages like "how to use .NET to build your web form".) My web hosting comes with CPanel links to set up both MySQL and Postgres databases. I think I know the basics of raw HTML forms but I don't yet know how to hook one up to a running database, nor how to access-protect it. I'm comfortable with the SQL to create and query the tables, and while every database is a little different on this I assume I can figure out data import from CSV.

Or maybe I should be looking for something hosted, like Google Sheets but for an actual database. (I've tried importing this data into Google Sheets. Using that on my phone is pretty terrible and it doesn't really support search anyway.) So long as I can export data from someone else's service, I don't need to self-host. But if self-hosting is easy I'd prefer that.

Out of curiosity I asked ChatGPT, and it gave me some PHP with a username and password baked in and a suggestion to do better security. The code doesn't do quite what it said it would do (based on inspection), but it's broadly plausible and ChatGPT even pointed out the problems with security, input sanitation, and validation.

Any advice from my readers?

As I make the rounds doing year-end donations, I'm reminded of two things that have long puzzled me:

1. Some web sites auto-detect the type of credit card based on the number. Apparently all credit-card numbers that begin with "4" are Visa. (I don't know if the reverse is true: do all Visa numbers start with 4?) Being me, I've cycled through the other nine digits and nothing else produces a match based on a single digit. What are the patterns for other providers? And are all these sites using some standard library for this, or are programmers really coding that by hand?

2. Years ago, a three-digit code ("CCV") was added to cards to mitigate fraud. On a physical credit card, this number is stamped rather than embossed, so those old-style manual credit-card gadgets that took an imprint of your card (on actual paper, with a carbon!) couldn't record it. Um, that's fine I guess, but online, that number isn't any more secure than the card number itself. And someone who steals your physical card has the number; it's not a password. Does that number have another purpose?

Dear Brain Trust,

I have a technical problem that I'm a few clues shy of solving. Can you help?

I have a personal web site, which I built using an SSG called Yellow. I'm using a few of their extensions, most importantly Blog. The way you use Yellow is to download and unpack a ZIP file, download any extensions you want into that directory structure, and add your content (also into that directory structure). The source is on GitHub but they also give you these ZIP files.

Last summer I downloaded those ZIP files, unpacked them, started tweaking things, and added my own content. I never cloned their repositories; I just took the ZIP files. Eventually I figured out that the easiest way for me to deploy my site was to use GitHub: I created a private repository, into which I added my then-current versions of both the tooling and the content, and I update it as needed (for example to add this post).

Yes I now know this was the wrong way to go about it. Apparently we won't have gotten "send clue back in time" working in my lifetime.

Since then, they've made some updates that I would like to take advantage of. I want to update to the new version, incorporating the changes I made to the previous version (figure out what they were and how to apply them). And I want to figure out a better way to organize this so that the next upgrade is more straightforward.

I imagine that what I wanted to have done instead was to fork their repos, apply my changes, make a separate repo for my content, and (do magic here) so it all works together. I don't know what that magic is. I'd like to check my assumptions about this being a better approach. Is there some other way I should be managing this? Another way to think about it is that my project (my site) has GitHub dependencies (those other two repositories); I'm not familiar with how dependencies are typically managed.

I mentioned I'm using GitHub for deployment. More specifically: I make edits on my personal machine, commit and push, and then on the hosting server I pull and, wham, the site is up to date. There's no explicit build step and I'm not fussing with rsync. My "aha" moment was that git can already figure out what's changed and needs to be pulled, so why should I have to? I like this simplicity.

I have found the version of the blog extension I started from (thank you for explicit version numbering), so it is possible to identify the changes I made to the original.

Should I create new repos (or forks) from the previous version, apply my changes, get that working, and then try to do the upgrade from there? How should I manage the multiple git repositories so that everything ends up in the right places? There's one repo for the base system (yellow), one for all the extensions (which overlays the file structure of the base system), and then I need a place for my actual content. How do I do this?

I am starting to think new-phone thoughts, and I'm looking for some meta-advice: advice about traits and how to research stuff more than specific models. (The latter are welcome too, but my questions are a litlte higher-level.)

One of my strongest concerns is about size, both physically and digitally. My current phone has the following stats:

• Dimensions: 151.7 x 75 x 7.9 mm
• Display size: 5.5 inches, 82.2 cm2 (~72.2% screen-to-body ratio)
• Resolution (this is very unusual): 1440 x 2560 pixels, 16:9 ratio (~538 ppi density)

In recent years phones have reverted to worse-than-2:1 aspect ratios. They've reinvented candybars, dammit. But maybe that's ok, if I can still see stuff. So, can I?

I almost always use my phone in portrait mode, as I think most people do. I don't watch movies; I read text. Web pages, mostly. That text needs to be able to be wide enough to be comfortable to read, and for web sites to not break if (when) I need to zoom. For context, on my current phone I have Chrome text scaling at 110% (minimum size, starting from whatever their default is), and "force enable zoom" because some web developers are rude that way.

The aspect ratios I'm seeing on modern phones are generally in the range of 1080:2400, give or take a bit. That 1080 width is significantly smaller than my current width of 1440. I assume that just means that, for phones of equal physical width, my phone is just packing in a lot more pixels per inch, so the display is a little crisper. I don't think I've seen pixel densities that high on specs I've looked at.

Pixels, schmixels, maybe: I don't know why this matters. Does it? I would naively expect that lower pixel density means a little more blurriness, but since I have to zoom most things to see them at all, do I care?

But there's a wrinkle. In order to get that physical width, with the change in aspect ratios I'd need to accept a phone that's about a centimeter longer. I'm concerned about pockets. Women, especially curvy women, if you carry a larger phone in your pants pocket, what's the secret? I assume that "butt-dialing" is just a figure of speech and folks don't actually carry phones in back pockets, right? (I tried putting mine there and it felt both uncomfortable and unsafe.)

So at current aspect ratios, I need to either settle for a narrower phone, raising questions about whether that width can meet my vision needs, or accept a longer phone, and figure out how to test that with front pockets of my jeans and chinos, because buying a whole new wardrobe to accommodate a phone is ridiculous. Phone in pants pocket is a hard requirement: purses, belt pouches, backpacks, "on the desk next to you", and dresses are unacceptable solutions. I want the safety of having it actually on my person (harder to separate from me), and I want to be able to feel vibrations because most of the time the sound is turned off in public. (Granted, "in public" has been rare of late, but I hope my next phone outlasts the current restrictions.)

Other factors besides size:

• I want this phone to last for a few years, so 5G seems prudent. All the 5G phones except iPhones seem to be huge?
• I'm pretty solidly on Team Android. I'm not a fan of either Apple or Google when it comes to how they treat people, but I'm less of a fan of Apple and I'm already used to Android. (Also, my tablet is Android.)
• I take pictures sometimes, and am even trying to learn to use the non-default settings on the camera, but "has a camera that doesn't stink" is likely to be good enough. Lots of phones these days hype their super-megapixel 4-lens cameras; I don't think I care. If I should care, please clue me in.

Does anybody make a phone that might meet my requirements with a more pleasant aspect ratio (and thus form factor for vision and pockets)? Short of reading specs for phones one at a time, how can I find out? Searching for things like "5g android 16:9 2021" isn't producing hits.

[Update to the update, 2020-12-14 13:15 EST: Lost service again this morning. After much discussion with a T-Mobile rep, I've learned that they are doing work on my tower to upgrade it for 5G, this work will continue for a few weeks, and while they don't think there are general outages despite my reports, "brief interruptions" are possible during this work. Uh...]

[Update 2020-12-13 15:45 EST: Problem went away on its own; see comment below for more info.]

I generally don't keep my phone's WiFi on; even though I could use my home network, I don't tend to run into throttling on the cell network, this frees up some home bandwidth for other things (like my work computer, since March), and I'd rather not have other WiFi networks passively tracking me when I'm out and about (not a consideration since March, but someday again I hope).

On Thursday my phone started dropping the cell connection -- flaky, not outright reporting errors, but almost entirely not working. (In timing that somehow just fits in 2020, it dropped two minutes before an important phone call.) I've switched to WiFi, which seems to demand more battery, but eh, it's a workaround.

This, however, leaves me with the underlying problem: what the heck is going on? I've already power-cycled, reseated the SIM card, reset the network connections (but not messed around in APN), toggled into and out of airplane mode... none of that helped. I even got a new SIM card from T-Mobile (on Friday) and swapped that in; still nothing. Another device on the same network (and plan) gets low bars but gets bars. This feels like a recent degradation, but in the course of debugging this I learned that Dani uses the home WiFi all the time, so I don't have good data from a second device.

I talked with an actual human at T-Mobile (in order to get the new SIM card), who told me that he's not surprised that a phone released in 2016 (I bought in in 2017) is having problems on "modern networks" (by which we mean the 4G LTE that's been there for the life of this phone). His take is that technology moves on and my phone's antenna probably isn't powerful enough any more. I don't know how to test that hypothesis; if the antenna were completely gone it wouldn't work with WiFi either, but it does.

Is there some other debugging I can do, or any simple repair I can make? Or am I in "buy a new phone" territory?

A new phone wouldn't necessarily be the worst thing; mine is stuck at Android 7.1.1 (because of US trade blocks against China that happened mere weeks after I bought the phone). But the phone otherwise works fine, so if it's fixable then replacing it would be a waste. And, more significantly: WTF is with phone sizes and aspect ratios these days? My phone has a 16:9 aspect ratio and is 6" long. This is a good size for me. Anything bigger won't comfortably fit in my pocket; much smaller and I'll have trouble seeing. And that's where the width comes in: modern phones are too freaking skinny for text! They've all been designed around the idea that you'll watch widescreen movies on your phone, I guess, which I consider ridiculous -- I'll watch movies on my TV or at least my full-size monitor, or if really pressed, my 10" tablet. Not my phone. But to make them support that, they've made the portrait orientation tall and skinny, and that does not work for me.

Remember when cell phones were new and not yet smart? (Some of you might not.) There were two basic styles: flip-phones and candy bars. I never understood why anybody liked the candy bars; they were large and prone to butt-dialing. A flip-phone fit in my pocket fine and its keys couldn't accidentally be pressed while closed. While locking has presumably cut down on butt-dialing, I still don't want the candy-bar form factor.

(My phone is a ZTE Axon 7. I would like as close to its aspect ratio and size as I can get, if I have to get a new one.)

--

A tip led me to Network Cell Info Lite, which has gauges with needles that hover between the orange and red zones (not completely static). I'll collect some more data points when getting take-out tomorrow.

Dear brain trust,

On my domain, I have email addresses that collect a local copy (i.e. I can use webmail on my domain to read them) and also forward a copy to my Gmail address. This is particularly helpful for low-volume addresses that I might not otherwise check frequently.

Today somebody with whom I'd been corresponding contacted me via another channel to report that his email was now being rejected -- by Gmail. Sure enough, the copies are sitting in my domain mailbox just fine, but there's no sign of them at Gmail -- not in trash, not in spam, just not there. Gmail seems to have decided to reject them and not even tell me.

I have questions.

1. How do I get Gmail to stop doing that, at all? If email is sent to my Gmail address, especially by my own forwarder!, I want it to show up there. In the spamtrap is fine if Google thinks it is. Silent deletion is Not Ok.

2. If I can't get Gmail to stop doing it, can I get notifications somewhere?

3. I expected the forwarding from my domain to Gmail to be a private matter between those two parties. Why did the Gmail rejection get all the way back to the sender? Why did I not receive a notice of the rejection at my domain address, which is what sent it along to Gmail? Is there something I can do, presumably via CPanel, to intercept rejections by forwarding addresses?

4. Gmail has filters, which can be used to process incoming email in various ways. I've used them to whitelist a few senders that Gmail thinks are spammers that aren't. When in the pipeline do filters get applied? I think it's after this rejection it's doing, since the message goes nowhere that I can see, but I've whitelisted this particular address now in any case.

I am using an HP docking station (I think it's this one) with my laptop. I actually have two of these docks, one at the office and one at home.

At the office, everything works correctly.

At home, the dock successfully handles video (external monitor) and power, but it does not "see" the USB ports or the ethernet port. I've been working around this by plugging USB directly into the laptop and using Wifi, but I'd like to actually solve the problem. Any ideas?

Everything I've found on Google leads to suggestions to update Thunderbolt drivers or change BIOS settings, but I repeat: it works at the office. That tells me the problem is not with the laptop but with the dock.

Does the dock need software updates of its own? I tried asking Google about that but kept ending up at instructions to update Thunderbolt drivers on the laptop.

I don't want to do anything to the laptop. I don't want to get back to the office (I assume that will happen someday) and find out I've broken things there. I can use these workarounds at home.

But it seems like I ought to be able to fix this so I don't have to?

The TiVo that I bought (used) 4.5 years ago is showing signs of malaise -- probably the hard drive (again) but it's hard to tell. This is my second TiVo and I'm not exactly enchanted by their subscription model -- required if you want program data, which is pretty essential for programming recordings, but when they say "lifetime subscription" they mean lifetime of the box. If I watched a lot of TV that might be worth the cost, but it's hard to justify for the amount I watch. And their monthly subscription is a non-starter; that's just a way to pay them even more money for the relatively small amount I watch. I'm also not enchanted by the tendency of their technical-support people to respond to every problem with "you should buy a new TiVo".

I'm looking for an alternative and appealing to my DW brain trust for suggestions.

Some specifics: ( Read more... )

I don't know a lot about the nuts and bolts of responsive design (the "how", I mean), but Stack Exchange is moving toward it so I'm starting to pay attention.

Meanwhile, my ancient tablet seems to be in its death throes, so I've started to look around at what's out there these days, and I realized something. I'm looking at some 10" tablets with resolutions like 2048x1536. My 30-inch monitor at work is something like 2500px wide. These are, of course, not even remotely the same size pixels. Pixels have always varied with the size of the monitor, of course, but a ~10" tablet used to be in the range of 1024 or 1280 wide (landscape), not twice that.

I've seen discussions of SE's upcoming responsive design that say things like "and at widths under 900px it does this" and "the max width for the content area is (some number of pixels)".

How does this work? How can I see reasonable "real-world" sizing of things on both my big monitor and my tablet when designers are measuring things in pixels and tablets are doing crazy-dense things with pixels these days? I guess the same can be said of 4k displays (which I don't have). Do these ultra-dense devices somehow tell the browser "no, really, treat me as half that for layout purposes"? On a tablet will I need to have tons of zoom -- but still struggle to see the actual application's controls, because those don't zoom when you make content bigger?

I must be missing something obvious. Anybody want to enlighten me?

My (Android) phone alerts me when traffic is bad near me. This can be handy at the end of the day because I work downtown. Except... it's telling me about traffic on roads I don't use to get home. Sure, there's spillover so it's not unhelpful, but it'd be great if I could tell it -- maybe by gesturing on a map -- what paths I care about, so it could tell me about those ones.

Does anybody reading this know of an app that does that, or a way to get Google Maps to do it? It needs to be fire and forget; I don't want to have to open the map app to look for red lines on it.

It feels like all the information is already there, if only my phone were making use of it.

(This would also let me know before I leave in the morning if traffic is still bad at the other end. At that time I don't really need extra information about traffic near my house; I need it 3-5 miles away.)